Grapes: 100% Chardonnay
Adrien Dhondt has made Dhondt-Grellet one of the most sought-after names in grower Champagne, bringing a fresh perspective to his family's vineyards in the Côte des Blancs. His wines have a distinctly individual personality, combining the elegance we love in Chardonnay with an almost Burgundian sense of texture and depth. Production is tiny, and Les Nogers is one of the cuvées that shows just how exciting his approach can be.
Les Nogers comes from a parcel in Cuis, a Premier Cru village where Chardonnay tends to offer a particularly lively expression of the Côte des Blancs. The 2020 is a Champagne with real substance, but it's the balance between richness and freshness that makes it so compelling. There's plenty of complexity here without sacrificing the energy that makes a great Blanc de Blancs so irresistible.
There's ripe citrus, peach and golden apple, followed by toasted almond, a little brioche and a hint of spice. The palate is generous and layered, with fine bubbles and a chalky, mouthwatering finish that seems to go on forever. This is Champagne to give some attention to, preferably in a proper wine glass rather than a flute. Wonderful with scallops, lobster, roast turbot or a particularly good roast chicken.
Wine Advocate: 96 Points
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